Q: There is so much talk these days about sulfates. It is starting to sound like the new marketing fad in haircare. But what are they really? Why does my hairdresser want me to avoid them? What sulfate-free products can I find at the Beauty Store? Is every shampoo with sulfates bad?
A: What are they?
First of all, we must be clear on the word. We are are talking about Sulfates (with an “a”) not sulfites (with an “I” – which is a preservative in some foods.) A Sulfate is a salt of sulfuric acid. The sulfate compounds found in most shampoos, dish and laundry detergents, soaps, and toothpastes are Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS – also known as Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate: SDS) is an inexpensive lathering compound that can be found in household cleaners and degreasers as well as hair care products. Sodium laureth sulfate is known to be less irritating than sodium lauryl sulfate because SLES doesn’t dissolve proteins in the tissues like SLS.1 Regardless, both of these surfactants are what are being avoided in Sulfate-free shampoos.
A: Who is avoiding them?
Hair Color specialists are asking their clients to avoid sulfates because the inexpensive detergents in sulfate shampoos can be more harsh on the hair than a sulfate-free shampoo. (Think of the time you used dish, hand, or laundry soap to wash out a hair color that didn’t quite go the way you wanted it.)
With Keratin straightening treatments like Brazillian Blowout on the rise, Sulfate-free shampoos become essential in maintaining that smooth, relaxed hair miracle. These treatments form a protective protein layer around the hair shaft to eliminate frizz and smooth the cuticle.2 As you read above, sulfates – especially SLS – dissolve these proteins.
Even our au natural friends who would not mess with the nature of their hair in exchange for free SXSW wristbands are avoiding sulfates for several reasons: moisture, frizz- control, and a less common, and more mild alternative. Curly-haired beauty’s that have embraced their curl avoid sulfates because they strip their drier-textured hair of crucial moisture and oils.
Rumors about sulfates causing hair-loss have also motivated many to opt for sulfate-free, though there is no study that proves or disproves this.
A: What sulfate-free shampoos can I find at the Beauty Store?
Here is a list compiled in September 2011; but I am sure we will be seeing more. Do not worry about memorizing the list, our staff is prepared to point you in the right direction. DON’T FORGET TO READ ON AFTER THE LIST – there are respected hair care lines that continue to formulate excellent sulfate shampoos.
I separated the list into categories, for the sake of breaking down the list; but there is definitely liberty in trying any of these formulas. Find what makes your hair happy!
Color:
All of Pureology*, Deva Care, Alterna*, Moroccan Oil*, are sulfate free, Mop’s C – shampoos*, Terrax*, Biolage Delicate Care shampoo, Abba’s Color Protect, Bed Head Colour Goddess (brunettes), NovaFusion color-depositing shampoos, Awapuhi Wild Ginger by Paul Mitchell
Moisture or Frizz-control:
It’s a 10, Kiwi, Catwalk Sleek Mystique, Abba Pure Moisture and Daily Shampoo, Bed Head Extreme Straight, Rockaholic Living the Dream, Agadir, Mastey, Enjoy
Curls:
Deva Curl and Deva Care (you can actually find non-lathering shampoos in Deva), Catwalk’s Curlesque, Bed Head Hi-def Curls
Exclusive Keratin Treatment Maintenance (though you are able to use any sulfate-free shampoo): Brazillian Blowout, Marcia Teixera, and Copolla (s. lamar beauty store only)
*You can still get volume with a sulfate-free shampoos: Pureology Pure Volume, Moroccan Oil Volume, Catwalk Your Highness, Bed Head Epic V olume,
For the kiddos: Fairytales lice-repelling shampoos are also sulfate-free!!!
Are all sulfate shampoos bad?
After all the valid reasons to switch over to a sulfate-free product, it is a wonder why anybody would continue washing with SLS or even SLES. Many highly respected shampoos at the Beauty Store contain sulfates. These are just a few examples:
Phyto is a botanically based hair care line that is dedicated “to explore the world in search of the finest and most effective ingredients”. 3 You may find SLES on its box; but seeing the health of Phyto users’ hair and my own experience with it, I continue to vouche for Phytologie. I actually witnessed a customer a few weeks ago as she found out she had been using Phyto on her Keratin treated hair. I showed her a few other products she could use. She gave them a thought but ended up buying Phyto anyway. She said she was going to stick to it because it worked for her before she read the label.
Nioxin is another reason to not completely lose faith in sulfates. Nixon, like Phyto, strives to create a healthy balanced environment in the scalp. It is excellent for treating both dry or congested scalps (depending on formula) so that hair follicles are free to do their work.
Wella, the makers of excellent professional hair colors just relaunched their color- oriented hair care; and sulfates remain on their label. Even with the older, sulfate formula, I had red-head clients (not natural, of course; but that’s between us and her hairdresser) that raved about Wella’s ability to maintain her red – and red is a fast-fading color!
There is so much more that can be discussed on sulfates; but I hope this can serve as a guide as you decide on your next magic potion. Let me know what you think or have experienced or any questions that you may have.
1Read more: http://www.differencebetween.com/difference-between-sodium-lauryl-sulfate-and-vs-sodium- laureth-sulfate/#ixzz1YpHmnTep
2http://www.brazilianblowout.com/bb_original
3http://www.phyto-usa.com/Ingredients.aspx
Also Referenced Wikipedia.org
http://www.livecurlylivefree.com/curl%20care.htm
